Built in 1902 as the tallest lighthouse in Europe and the tallest stone-built lighthouse in the world (its height is surpassed by the edifice at Jeddah in Saudi Arabia, but that is built of steel and concrete). The little island one and a half kilometres off the coast is currently named from a chapel dedicated to the Virgin Mary built by 15th century monks who tried (and failed) to live in the inhospitable environment. It had previously been a druidic sanctuary, but not a permanent residence; the soil is sterile and in bad weather there is salt in the air.
397 steps up, the light is visible for 50 kilometres around, and it is vitally necessary to shipping as it is the westernmost light on the southern shore of the Channel, which narrows rapidly as ships progress eastwards to Le Havre and Rotterdam.
The light is also vitally necessary for coastal traffic – a quick look at the chart of these waters reveals an astounding number of scattered rocks, few of them visible at high tide. They tend to rise vertically off the bottom in long lines like fences parallel to the coast: threading a way through the gaps in the fences is a necessary skill for fishing in this area. The Ile Vierge light provides one of the direction signs for finding a safe harbour in Aber Wrac’h, where the once-busy commercial port is now mostly dedicated to yachting.
The light became fully automated in 2010, under remote control from the Créac’h lighthouse on Ushant (Ouessant). It is open to the public, and the older lighthouse alongside it has been converted into a eco-gîte. Boats from Castel Ac’h (Lilia Plage) take visitors to the island at high tide, and there is a guided tour – though there is no lift to help you reach the astounding view of the coastal rock-jumble from the top of the 397 steps.
But the view of the lighthouse from the point at Castel Ac’h is worth a detour in its own right. She stands tall, graceful and commanding despite her 120 years, a lasting credit to the sevens masons of Cap Sizun who built her.
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